Das Werkstatt

1. Select a visual range
2. Press "g" then "Ctrl+G".

At the bottom, in the status bar you should now see something like this:

Selected 14 of 102 Lines; 110 of 375 Words; 750 of 2575 Chars; 750 of 2577 Bytes

If you have no range selected, the stats will be for the whole document, relating to your current cursor position.